Empty Boxes on East Broadway
On March 16, 1966, a new kind of shoe store opened at 704 East Broadway in Anaheim, California. It was a small showroom carved out of the front of a factory, about 400 square feet in one account, under a sign reading Van Doren Rubber Company. On display were samples of three styles of canvas shoes, priced from $2.49 to $4.99. Many of the boxes on the shelves behind the counter were empty. The partners didn't know how many orders they'd get, so they hadn't made much stock yet.
The customers who came in that day, a dozen by most counts and more than twenty in the founder's own later memory, tried on samples and placed orders. The shoes were then made in the factory behind the showroom and collected later. When the first customers came back for their shoes, the founder, a thirty-five-year-old shoe-factory veteran named Paul Van Doren, realized that nobody had put any cash in the register. He couldn't make change. So he handed over the shoes and asked people to come back and pay when they could. Every one of them did.
He was blunt about it many years later. He told WWD the mistake was stupid, and that the lesson he took from it was to treat people the way you'd want to be treated. The episode captures a lot of what followed: a manufacturer who had never run a shop, selling direct to the public, improvising, and finding that customers repaid trust with loyalty.
Van Doren and his partners went on to build Vans into the defining shoe of Southern California skateboarding, and eventually into a brand that its later owner, VF Corporation, grew past $2 billion a year in sales. He lived to see his memoir, Authentic, published on April 27, 2021, and died nine days later, at ninety.
By the Numbers
The House of Vans
20 yearsVan Doren's apprenticeship at the Randolph Rubber Company before founding Vans
$2.49Price of the cheapest shoe on opening day, March 16, 1966
~70Vans stores in California by the end of the 1970s
$20M → $40M+Annual sales before and after Fast Times at Ridgemont High (1982)
$12MDebt when Vans filed for Chapter 11 in 1984, per WWD
$74.4MPrice McCown De Leeuw & Co. paid for Vans in 1988
$396MPrice VF Corporation paid for Vans in 2004
Sparklers and Dutch the Clutch
Paul Van Doren was born in Boston on June 12, 1930, to Johnson and Rena Van Doren. His father was an inventor and entrepreneur; his mother was a seamstress. The family lived in Randolph, Massachusetts, a shoe town south of Boston.
In the first chapter of Authentic, excerpted by Fortune, Van Doren recalled working in his father's barn making Fourth of July sparklers. His job was to attach a few dozen sticks to a wooden frame and dip them into a barrel of flammable compound. He was, as he put it, the assembly line. When his father could afford to hire another worker, the new man turned out to be three times as slow and paid three times as much, and the boy quit.
He was more interested in horses than school. As a teenager he spent his days at the racetrack, where, according to The Irish Times and other obituaries, he was known as Dutch the Clutch for his skill at working out the odds. He left school early; sources put it at fourteen or sixteen. His mother decided the racetrack was no career and found him a job at a local shoe factory.
The gambler's feel for numbers never left him. The company that eulogized him in 2021 singled out his knack for figures and a genius for efficiency.
Twenty Years at Randy's
The factory was the Randolph Rubber Company, known as Randy's. Van Doren started there at sixteen as a service boy, a runner who carried materials around the plant, and stayed about twenty years. Randy's made vulcanized canvas sneakers and had a long relationship with Keds, though it was a minor player next to Keds and Converse. Van Doren learned the whole process, from cutting and sewing canvas uppers to vulcanizing the rubber soles in heat so they bonded to the upper. His mentor was Bob Cohen, the owner's son, whom he later described as the smartest man he had ever met.
One night with Cohen changed his outlook. As he tells it in Authentic, Cohen took the young supervisor to a Boston shoe trade show, where Van Doren's job was to set up and break down the booth. One buyer there represented more than half of Randy's business. By evening he was drunk, and he ordered Cohen to go out to Boston Common and catch him a pigeon. Van Doren watched from a lamppost on Tremont Street as a man he admired stumbled around trying to do it rather than risk the account.
Someday, someway, somehow, I would figure out a way to get rid of the middlemen.
— Paul Van Doren, Authentic: A Memoir by the Founder of Vans, 2021
He drew two conclusions, both of which he said later shaped Vans. He would never work with jerks, and he would never let one customer have that much power over his business. The second became a strategy. If shoemakers depended on a handful of department-store buyers, the way out was to sell to the public directly.
Van Doren kept rising at Randy's. By his mid-thirties he was running its most successful factory and, according to several accounts, held the title of executive vice president.
The Garden Grove Assignment
In 1964 Randy's sent Van Doren to Southern California to turn around an underperforming factory it operated in Garden Grove, in Orange County. His brother James and a colleague, Gordon Lee, went with him. By the family's account, the turnaround worked.
That summer, as recounted by WWD and by his son Steve in a 2016 interview with the Los Angeles Times, Van Doren set up a Randy's booth at the surf contest in Huntington Beach. There he met Duke Kahanamoku, the Hawaiian swimmer and surfer. Kahanamoku and a group of well-known surfers were wearing matching Hawaiian shirts, and Van Doren offered to make shoes from the fabric. Kahanamoku handed over one of the shirts, and Van Doren took it back to the factory and made the shoes. It was a small favor, but it gave him an idea he would use again: canvas shoes could be made from almost any fabric that could survive vulcanization.
Soon afterward he left Randy's. In his telling, the break came when Cohen promoted to top positions a group of managers who, in Van Doren's view, had just run another manufacturing operation into the ground. Asking his team to report to them felt like another request to go chase a pigeon, and he quit.
Building the House of Vans
The plan was simple to describe and unusual for its time: a factory in the back making shoes and a store in the front selling them. The partners were Paul, his younger brother James, Gordon Lee and Serge D'Elia. According to WWD, D'Elia put up $250,000. The rest of the start-up effort came from the family. Van Doren's in-laws, brother-in-law, brothers and children helped build out the factory, paint it and install the machinery, and when the store was ready to open, his school-age children handed out flyers around the neighborhood.
Van Doren thought "Van Doren Rubber Company" was the wrong name for a shoe shop, since the rubber part, as he wrote, didn't exactly scream shoe store. The retail sign became "House of Vans," and the first shoebox slogan, according to WWD, promised canvas shoes for the entire family.
The very first style was a lace-up canvas deck shoe designated Style 44, renamed the Authentic in the 1990s. It came in navy, light blue, white and loden green. Its thick, grippy vulcanized sole was the product's real advantage, and it wasn't right at first. The original diamond-patterned soles cracked across the ball of the foot after a short time. The flaw showed up quickly because the people who bought the shoes came back to the same building where they were made. The factory changed the tread to a denser pattern, and the waffle sole became the company's signature.
Moms, Fabric and One Shoe at a Time
The early customers taught Van Doren who his market was. In an excerpt from Authentic published by GQ, he describes a family of four. He put shoes on the little girl who needed them, and on her brother, who didn't but wouldn't leave without a pair, so Van Doren gave those away. Then the mother talked her reluctant husband into a pair and vetoed his choice of color twice before he settled on green.
I had never realized that the mom is really the boss of the family. Mom is almost always the one who decides when, where, how, and everything else about shopping for the family.
— Paul Van Doren, Authentic: A Memoir by the Founder of Vans, 2021
Van Doren changed course. He added colors in response to requests, made more of whatever sold, and tried women's styles such as espadrilles and saddle shoes, which did little. What worked was custom manufacturing. A woman came into the store with a piece of pink fabric left over from a dress she had sewn and couldn't find matching sneakers anywhere in Orange County. Remembering Kahanamoku's shirt, Van Doren offered to make her a pair from her own fabric for the usual price plus 50 cents, slipping the job into the line between scheduled color changes. She pulled out a second swatch, in yellow.
His partners agreed to make it a service. Every store took custom orders, first from customers' own fabrics and later from Vans' swatch books. Drill teams, cheerleaders, marching bands, choirs and sports teams across Southern California ordered shoes in their school colors. Vans also began selling single shoes, so a customer who wore out one shoe, or whose feet were different sizes, didn't have to buy a pair. Van Doren wrote that podiatrists started sending patients to Vans. When he noticed girls buying boys' shoes two sizes down, he stopped making separate boys' and girls' lines and went unisex.
The factory made all of this possible. Every Vans style used the same two kinds of rubber sole and the same vulcanizing process, the hardest part of shoemaking. Only the uppers differed. That meant the line could change color or style every day, or every hour, while conventional shoemakers changed their range once a year.
It helps that we knew our customers, especially the skaters, the surfers and the moms.
— Paul Van Doren, Authentic: A Memoir by the Founder of Vans, 2021
A Store Nearly Every Week
Vans grew by adding shops. In 1967, according to one company history, it opened a new retail outlet nearly every week. The model stayed the same: small stores stocked from the Anaheim factory, selling at prices well below national brands. The company's own history, as summarized by Wikipedia, says that when half of the first ten stores were losing money, the accountants advised closing them. Van Doren opened more instead, on the reasoning that more volume through the factory would lower the cost of every pair. By the end of the 1970s Vans had roughly seventy stores in California.
Staffing that many shops stretched the family thin. Steve Van Doren, who had painted the original factory with his siblings, went to work behind a counter at eleven. His father told WWD in 2021 that he did it because he had run out of help. A customer wrote in to complain that it was appalling to put a child that age to work, then added that after meeting him, she had no doubt the next generation would be a great one. The younger Van Doren has spent his working life at the company since. The shops also doubled as a distribution network the national brands didn't have. Most sneakers of the era reached customers through department stores and sporting-goods chains that ordered a season ahead. Vans could ship a new color from Anaheim to its own shelves within days and see in the sales figures whether it worked.
His aversion to paid marketing lasted until 1972. That year he attended the Munich Olympics, where, as
WWD recounts, he watched Mark Spitz win his seventh gold medal and wave to the crowd holding a pair of
Adidas shoes. The Games ended in tragedy with the massacre of Israeli athletes, but Van Doren came home convinced that athletes could sell shoes. He did not have Adidas's budget, and he didn't need it. The athletes who mattered most to his business were teenagers in his own county.
The Skaters Find the Shoe
By the early 1970s, skateboarders had discovered the Style 44. The thick waffle sole stuck to the board and let them feel it underfoot, and the shoes were cheap and hard to wear out. Skaters wore out their back shoe faster than the front, from braking and sliding, and Vans, which already sold single shoes, would sell them one replacement. Navy deck shoes were on the feet of the Zephyr team, the Dogtown skaters later known as the Z-Boys, at the 1975 Del Mar Nationals.
Van Doren invited two of them, Stacy Peralta and Tony Alva, to talk about design and pick up free shoes. Peralta became the company's first sponsored skater. According to The Irish Times, Van Doren eventually paid him $300, then a significant sum, to wear Vans as he toured. Out of those conversations came Style 95 in 1976, now called the Era, which the company credits to Alva and Peralta. It had a padded collar for ankle protection and came in two-tone color combinations. Steve Van Doren told the Smithsonian that his father, set in his ways after thirty years of making shoes, padded the collar, added an outside heel counter and switched to the heaviest-duty canvas available. It was the first Vans shoe designed for skateboarding.
The skaters also supplied the slogan. The skate shoe was marketed as the "Off the Wall" shoe, after the way skaters launched out of the walls of drained swimming pools, and the phrase, along with a skateboard-shaped logo, became Vans' brand line.
The next two years set the product line that Vans still sells. In 1977 came Style 36, the Old Skool, with leather panels for durability and a curving side stripe that began, in the company's telling, as a doodle by Van Doren himself; it was first called the jazz stripe. The same year brought Style 98, the slip-on. In 1978 Style 38, the Sk8-Hi, extended the upper above the ankle for skaters riding pools and ramps. The checkerboard pattern also came from customers. As Steve Van Doren told WWD, kids at Huntington Beach High School were drawing checkerboards on the rubber foxing of their slip-ons, so Vans printed the pattern first on the rubber and then on the canvas.
Fast Times and a Fateful Handover
In the late 1970s, Paul Van Doren stepped back from running the company. Accounts put the date between 1976 and 1980, and his brother James took over. Paul turned to breeding racehorses.
Then came Hollywood. Sean Penn was a regular at the Vans store in Santa Monica and bought a pair of checkerboard slip-ons for himself. According to WWD, the store's manager, soon to become the company's publicity manager, delivered two dozen pairs to Universal. In Fast Times at Ridgemont High (1982), Penn's stoner surfer Jeff Spicoli wears the checkerboard slip-ons almost throughout, and the shoes filled the cover of the soundtrack album. The checkerboard slip-on design was credited to James Van Doren. Vans went from roughly a $20 million company to one on track for $40 million to $45 million.
The windfall set up a disaster. Under James, Vans tried to compete with the national athletic brands across the board, launching shoes for baseball, football, basketball, soccer, running, volleyball, wrestling and even breakdancing. It built a 175,000-square-foot plant in Orange, pushed its workforce past 1,000, and signed licensing deals for Vans-branded sunglasses and notebooks. Every one of those shoes was still made in the United States, while competitors had moved to lower-cost production in Asia. Cheap counterfeits of the checkerboard slip-on flooded the market, forcing price cuts. The new categories cost a fortune and brought in little.
In 1984, after defaulting on a payment to a creditor, Vans filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection. WWD puts the debt at about $12 million.
Paying a Hundred Cents on the Dollar
Paul Van Doren came out of retirement to run the reorganization as president. As his son Steve told WWD, the bankruptcy court approved a settlement under which Vans would pay creditors 25 cents on every dollar owed. Paul thought that was wrong. He asked for a longer repayment schedule, three and a half to four years in Steve's recollection, and paid everyone in full.
The cuts were severe. Vans narrowed its focus back to the canvas shoes and the skate, surf and BMX customers who had built it. The memoir recalls that at one point employees had to bring toilet paper from home. Vans emerged from Chapter 11 in 1986, and by 1987, in the family's account, its debts were cleared; sales that year reached about $50 million, and the company was profitable again.
With success comes reputation, with hardship comes character.
— Paul Van Doren, Authentic: A Memoir by the Founder of Vans, 2021
In 1988, with the company healthy, Van Doren and Gordon Lee sold Vans to the investment firm McCown De Leeuw & Co. for $74.4 million. Van Doren stayed on as chairman for a time while the new owners installed a professional chief executive, Richard Leeuwenberg. Vans went public in 1991, selling 4.1 million shares at $14 each.
After the Sale
Van Doren's later distance from the company has been glossed over in many tributes, but the Los Angeles Times noted that by his death he had been more than a quarter-century removed from Vans. The decisions that shaped the modern brand were made by others. In the mid-1990s management moved manufacturing overseas and in 1995 closed the Orange plant, laying off nearly 1,000 workers. Vans leaned into sponsorship instead of factories. In 1995, a longtime customer named Kevin Lyman approached the company about his traveling music festival, and Steve Van Doren suggested combining it with an amateur skate contest. The Vans Warped Tour ran for about twenty-five years. Vans also bought surfing's Triple Crown in Hawaii and began collaborating with outside brands, including a 1996 shoe with the New York skate shop Supreme.
VF Corporation bought Vans in 2004 for $396 million, when it had about $325 million in annual sales. By 2015 revenue was $2.2 billion, and Vans was VF's second-largest and most profitable brand. The family stayed close: Steve Van Doren became vice president of events and promotions, his sister Cheryl vice president of human resources, and two grandchildren held marketing and merchandising roles. The company still sells custom shoes, now designed online. In Authentic, Van Doren gave VF credit for understanding how a company's origin story can strengthen a brand: it adjusted the classic designs without overhauling them and reissued heritage pieces such as the shoe first made from Duke Kahanamoku's shirt. The checkerboard that kids once drew on their slip-ons is now a registered trademark for footwear, which the company defends in markets around the world.
Van Doren spent his last years on Authentic, which argued that his business had been built on people first and business second. He described himself as more of a problem solver than a visionary. Tony Alva narrated the audiobook. Paul Van Doren died on May 6, 2021, at the home of one of his children in Fullerton, California. The Irish Times reported the cause as kidney failure. He was survived by five children, Paul Jr., Steve, Cheryl, Taffy and Janie, along with ten grandchildren and ten great-grandchildren. His brother James had died in 2011, at seventy-two.
The Irish Times cast him as a countercultural counterpart to
Phil Knight, who had built
Nike in the same era with Asian contract manufacturing and huge athlete endorsements. Van Doren built his company in the opposite way: a factory he could see from the sales counter, and endorsements from teenagers he met in his own stores. The comparison shows both the strengths and the limits of his approach. His model gave Vans its identity and its loyal customers. It also made the company vulnerable once it tried to compete in categories where it had no customer relationship and where rivals made shoes far more cheaply.